Garter Snake Vermelha

CARE GUIDE

Size: Adults can reach 55-100cm (females are larger than males)

Origin: California, United States (Pacific coast)

Lifespan: Up to 12 years

Natural Habitat: It inhabits coastal marshes, dunes, wetlands and the edges of permanent or semi-permanent bodies of water along the California coast

The Garter Snake Vermelha (Thamnophis sirtalis infernalis) is a spectacular subspecies of the common Garter Snake, recognised by its vibrant colours and distinctive pattern of three stripes on an orange-red background interspersed with black blotches. This semi-aquatic snake stands out for its exotic beauty, generally docile temperament and adaptability to captivity. It is an active, diurnal species that enjoys both land and water environments.

They are snakes suited to keepers with some reptile experience, particularly due to their specific dietary needs and humidity requirements. With proper care, they can become fascinating companions and excellent specimens for anyone who appreciates native North American snakes.

Terrarium

Size: Minimum 90x45x45cm for 1 adult

Material: Glass (preferred due to humidity requirements)

- Heating and Lighting

You should set up a terrarium with a thermal gradient, with a minimum temperature of 24ºC on the cool side and around 30-32ºC at the basking spot. At night, the temperature can drop to 20ºC. To maintain these temperatures, you can use a heat lamp during the day and, if needed, a Ceramic Heat Emitter or Deep Heat Projector at night, always controlled by a thermostat.

As a diurnal species, the Garter Snake Vermelha benefits from low to medium UVB exposure (Ferguson Zone 2, UVI 1-3). 5-7% UVB tube lamps are recommended. Lighting should be on for 12 hours a day, simulating a natural day/night cycle.

- Humidity

The Garter Snake Vermelha needs a relative humidity between 50% and 60%. This can be maintained by daily misting and a large water container. It is essential to provide a wide, shallow water dish the snake can fully enter to swim and hydrate, changing the water daily.

This species really enjoys water and spends a lot of time in it, both for thermoregulation and feeding. A paludarium with a substantial water area is ideal for replicating its natural habitat.

- Decor

The terrarium should replicate this species' coastal wetland habitat. For substrate, a mix of fertiliser-free soil, coco fibre and sphagnum moss at least 5-8cm deep is recommended, as it helps retain moisture. A layer of dry leaves on top can enrich the environment.

Equip the terrarium with several hides at both thermal ends, flat rocks for thermoregulation, and logs and branches to allow natural climbing behaviour. Live or artificial plants provide cover and environmental enrichment. The water area should be deep enough for the snake to submerge completely (minimum 10cm), with accessible edges for easy entry and exit.

Diet and Supplementation

Feeding habits: Carnivorous (piscivorous/insectivorous)

Diet: In the wild, this species' diet consists mainly of fish, amphibians (frogs and newts), earthworms, slugs and occasionally small rodents. In captivity, a varied diet should be offered to ensure balanced nutrition.

Feeding Frequency: Juveniles should be fed every 4-5 days, adults every 7-10 days.

- Foods

Safe fish (thiaminase-free): Trout, Salmon, Tilapia

Invertebrates: Earthworms (Lumbricus terrestris), Slugs

Rodents: Newborn or juvenile mice (pinkies/fuzzies), frozen/thawed

IMPORTANT - Fish to Avoid: Never feed Goldfish, Rosy Reds, Whitebait, Mackerel or Sardines, as these contain thiaminase, an enzyme that destroys vitamin B1 and can cause serious neurological problems and death.

- Supplementation

Supplementation should be adjusted to the type of diet provided. Garter Snakes are at risk of vitamin B1 (thiamine) deficiency only when their diet regularly includes fish, especially species that contain thiaminase.

Fish-based diet: Whenever fish is part of the diet, supplementation with a vitamin complex containing vitamin B1 (thiamine) is recommended to prevent neurological deficiencies associated with prolonged fish consumption.

Whole-rodent diet: When the diet consists mainly of whole rodents (pinkies or fuzzies), regular vitamin supplementation is not usually necessary, as these foods provide a complete and balanced nutritional profile.

Calcium: A light dusting of calcium powder without vitamin D3 can be used occasionally, especially with mixed diets. The recommended calcium-to-phosphorus ratio is approximately 2:1.

Vitamin D3: In animals kept under adequate UVB lighting, vitamin D3 supplementation should be minimal or unnecessary. If functional UVB is not provided, a multivitamin with D3 can be used occasionally and in moderation.

A varied diet based mainly on whole prey is the safest and most nutritionally appropriate long-term approach for this species.

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