Blue Beauty Rat Snake

CARE GUIDE

Size: Adults can reach 180-240cm

Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand

Lifespan: Up to 20 years in captivity

Natural Habitat: It inhabits humid tropical forests, karst landscapes and adjacent farmland in Southeast Asia

The Blue Beauty Rat Snake (Elaphe taeniura callicyanous), also known as the Vietnamese Blue Beauty or Blue Beauty Snake, is a subspecies of the Beauty Rat Snake described in 2010 and previously classified as Orthriophis taeniurus callicyanous. Its name literally means "beautiful blue", a reference to the bluish-grey colouring that sets it apart from all other rat snakes. Like the other Beauty Rat Snakes, it has a black stripe behind each eye and a pattern that changes along the body, ending in longitudinal stripes on the tail, the feature that gives the species its name (taeniura, "ribbon tail").

They are large, slender, very active and agile snakes, diurnal and semi-arboreal, alternating between exploring the ground and climbing. Juveniles and rarely handled specimens tend to be nervous and defensive, raising the front of the body in an "S" shape and striking when they feel threatened. With short, calm and regular handling sessions, most become much more tolerant. Due to their size, speed and temperament, they are suited to people who already have some experience with snakes.

Although this is not a difficult species to keep, you should pay attention to a few aspects and ensure certain conditions, which you will find in the following paragraphs.

Terrarium

Size: Minimum 150x60x90cm for 1 adult (ideally 180x60x120cm or larger). Juveniles can start in a 60x45x45cm terrarium, increasing the space progressively as they grow.

Material: Glass or Wood (with good ventilation and a secure lock)

- Heating and Lighting

You should set up a terrarium with a thermal gradient, with a minimum temperature of 24ºC on the cool side, around 28-30ºC on the warm side and a basking spot reaching 32ºC. At night the temperature should not drop below 22ºC. As a rainforest species, it does not tolerate high temperatures for long periods, so it is essential that it always has access to a cooler area. Daytime heating can be provided with a halogen lamp at the top of the warm side and, if needed, a Ceramic Heat Emitter or Deep Heat Projector at night, always controlled by a thermostat. As this is a climbing snake, all heat sources must be fitted with a guard to prevent burns.

Although not strictly essential, daytime exposure to low UVB levels is recommended (Ferguson Zone 1-2, with a maximum UVI of 0.7 to 1.4 near the basking spot). To achieve these levels you can use ShadeDweller UV lamps or 5 to 7% UVB tubes placed at the right distance, always ensuring shaded areas in the terrarium. A photoperiod of around 12 hours is recommended.

- Humidity

The Blue Beauty Rat Snake comes from humid tropical forests and needs a relative humidity between 60% and 80%. To maintain this, use a moisture-retaining substrate and mist the terrarium once a day or whenever necessary. Ventilation is equally important: high humidity without air circulation encourages respiratory problems and dermatitis. During ecdysis (shedding), it is advisable to provide a "humid hide" filled with damp sphagnum moss.

They should always have a wide, stable water bowl with fresh water available, which they can also bathe in, a common behaviour in this species. As they often defecate in the water, it should be checked and changed regularly.

- Decor

You can use a Tropical Humus or Coco Chips substrate, or Arcadia Earth Mix, 5 to 10cm deep, as they like to dig and hide under the substrate. Create a three-dimensional habitat with logs, sturdy branches and platforms, making sure they are firmly secured and can support the animal's weight. It is advisable to provide hides on both sides of the thermal gradient and, if possible, a raised hide. Live plants (safe species only) and/or artificial ones provide visual cover and reduce stress, which is especially important for this more nervous subspecies. As these are fast snakes and skilled escape artists, the terrarium doors and lid must always be securely closed.

Diet and Supplementation

Feeding habits: Carnivorous

Juvenile Diet: You can feed prey of up to 15% of the animal's body mass every 5-7 days.

Adult Diet (from 2-3 years old): You can feed prey of up to 10% of the animal's body mass every 10-14 days. As these snakes have an excellent appetite, it is important not to exceed this frequency to prevent obesity.

- Foods

Dead Mice and/or Rats (frozen and properly thawed). Chicks or Quail can occasionally be offered to vary the diet. Prey should be fully thawed, warmed to body temperature and offered with tongs, avoiding accidental bites during the feeding response, which is quite vigorous in this species. Live prey is not recommended, as it can seriously injure the snake. Avoid handling the animal for 48 hours after a meal to prevent regurgitation.

- Supplementation

Unlike insectivorous or herbivorous reptiles, snakes that feed on whole prey receive all the nutrients they need from it, including the calcium in the skeleton and the vitamins in the prey's organs. So, as long as good-quality prey of a suitable size is offered, no vitamin or mineral supplementation is needed.

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